If one staying in Benaulim and is bound at some point to visit Varca: the row of beached wooden fishing boats 2-km south of Benaulim belong to its community of Christian fisher folk, whose palm thatched long houses line the foot of the grassy dunes.

PLACES TO STAY

It is possible to find rooms to rent in family houses by asking around the village. Facilities are ultra basic, but if one is looking for somewhere authentically Goan, yet not too far off track, Varca is worth considering. A bicycle and cooking equipment are essential for long spells.